In Germany, we stayed on a yacht. In Finland we stayed in a flat above a sex shop. The flat was small, and our room was too hot when the morning sun came up. Our host was a Turkish football referee who is studying to become a paramedic, and his 5 year old daughter was also staying there some of the time. He’d put a curtain up between the living room where they slept and ate and watched TV and the tiny kitchen where I tried not to wake them as I struggled to make breakfast (making coffee with filter papers in a colander) and sandwiches for our picnics on the beach.